** Lithium Polymer battery 충전에 관해서 12.00volt가 넘은 일반아답터로 충전해서는 안된다. car battery 로 충전할 때는 그 전압이 12.00 volt를 넘으면 충전하지 않는다. 전용충전기를 사용하더라도 정확히 12.00 volt 를 input 해야 한다. 그 이상이면 충전기를 고장낼 수 있다.
storage를 위해서는 3.85 volts 정도로 50%만 충전한다. ( 장기 보관을 위해서는 절반 수준만 충전해 둔다)
수명단축방지를 위해서는 3.7 volt ~ 4.1volt 를 지켜야 한다. ( 사용기간 중에는 완충을 하지 않는 한 수시로 충전한다.)
smart charger 를 사용하여 충전하는 것이 안전하고 battery 수명 단축도 지연시킬 수 있다.
NOCO G7200, D250S Dual Ctek 등이 있다.
1
Charging RC LiPo Batteries
Charging RC LiPo Batteries is a topic in itself. LiPo, LiIon, and LiFe batteries obviously have some very different characteristics from conventional RC rechargeable battery types. Therefore, charging them correctly with a charger specifically designed for lithium chemistry batteries is critical to both the lifespan of the battery pack, and your safety.
언제 불량이 나와 폭발할지 모른다. 충전할 때는 항상 안전을 위해 옆에 붙어 있어야 한다.
폭발에 대비해서 화재의 위험이 없는 실외에서 땅바닥이나 콩크리트 바닥 기타 안전한 장소에서 충전을 해야 한다. 차안에서 특이 시트위에서는 아주 위험하다.
Maximum Charge Voltage and Current
A 3.7 volt RC LiPo battery cell is 100% charged when it reaches 4.2 volts. Charging it past that will shorten life substantially. In fact, the cell phone industry did a study looking at the effect of LiPo fully charged voltages in relation to cycle life. These tests were done under ideal laboratory conditions and of course the 80% depth of discharge rule was obeyed! Here are the results:
- Charge to 4.1V gave over 2000 cycles. "sweet spot"
- Charge to 4.2V gave about 500 cycles.
- Charge to 4.3V gave under 100 cycles.
- Charge to 4.4V gave less than 5 cycles.
Folks in the RC world have reported similar results and one ongoing test seems to indicate if you set your maximum charge voltage to 4.15 volts per cell (if your computerized charge gives you that option), you should be able to get about 800 cycles (again if all the other LiPo usage rules are religiously obeyed). More and more people are considering this 4.15 termination voltage the "sweet spot" for both performance and cycle life for RC usage. Most RC chargers don't give you that ability, but if yours does, you may want to consider it.
One caveat to this I should mention are the new generation of "high voltage" LiPo cells. There are a few manufacturers that are producing LiPo cells that can handle as high as 4.35 volts and maintain a 500 cycle life.
No matter what your maximum charge termination voltage is, keeping each cell in the RC LiPo battery pack at that same voltage is another important rule to understand once I start talking about Balancing RC LiPo batteries, so keep that in the back of your head for right now.
It is critical that you use a charger specified for LiPo batteries and select the correct voltage or cell count when charging your RC LiPo batteries if you are using a computerized charger. If you have a 2 cell (2S) pack you must select 7.4 volts or 2 cells on your charger. If you selected 11.1V (a 3S pack) by mistake and tried to charge your 2S pack, the pack will be destroyed and most likely catch fire. Luckily, all the better computerized chargers out there these days will warn you if you selected the wrong cell count.
All LiPo battery chargers will use the constant current / constant voltage charging method (cc/cv). All this means is that a constant current is applied to the battery during the first part of the charge cycle. As the battery voltage closes in on the 100% charge voltage, the charger will automatically start reducing the charge current and then apply a constant voltage for the remaining phase of the charge cycle. The charger will stop charging when the 100% charge voltage of the battery pack equalizes with chargers constant voltage setting (4.2 volts per cell) at this time, the charge cycle is completed. Going past that to 4.3 volts will shorten battery life substantially as we have already seen.
RC LiPo Battery Charging Current
Selecting the correct charge current is also critical when charging RC LiPo battery packs. The golden rule here remains to be
"never charge a LiPo, LiIon, or LiFe pack greater than 1 times its capacity (1C)."
For example a 2000 mAh pack, would be charged at a maximum charge current of 2000 mA or 2.0 Amps. Going higher will shorten the life of the pack. Moreover, if you choose a charge rate significantly higher than the 1C value, the battery will heat up and could puff up.
( Higher than 1C charge rates... Most LiPo experts say you can safely charge at a 2C or even 3C rate on quality packs that have a discharge rating of at least 20C or more and have low internal resistances safely, but it will reduce LiPo life. Even though there are more and more LiPo packs showing up stating 2C, 3C, 4C and even 5C charge rates; this is just indicating it's still safe to charge at those rates and not risk thermal runaway within the battery; but it really has nothing to do with actual battery life. The simple fact is constantly charging any LiPo over 1C will have an impact on its life expectancy. )
The seven main things that shorten LiPo battery life are:
- HEAT
- LEAVING A LIPO FULLY CHARGED FOR SEVERAL DAYS
- OVER DISCHARGING (voltage & current)
- OVER CHARGING (voltage & current)
- INADEQUATE BALANCING
- IMPROPER STORAGE VOLTAGE (more on that shortly)
- PHYSICAL DAMAGE (dropping, over tightening straps, prying cells apart, using too much/too strong Velcro etc.)
2
RC LiPo Battery Balancing
Finally onto RC LiPo battery balancing – what is balancing and why it's important?
Remember me telling you to keep the 100% charged voltage value of 4.2 volts per cell in the back of your head? Well, here is where that number comes into play. For a single cell (3.7 volt LiPo battery) you don’t have to worry about balancing since the battery charger will automatically stop charging when the 100% charge voltage of 4.2 volts is reached.
Balancing is required however on any RC LiPo battery pack that has more than one cell since the charger can’t identify from different cells and know if one might be overcharged even though the total voltage of the pack indicates otherwise. For example let’s look at a 3 cell LiPo battery pack (three LiPo cells hooked in series or 3S).
This would be an 11.1 volt battery pack (3.7 volts per cell x 3 = 11.1 volts). The 100% charge voltage of this LiPo pack = 12.6 volts (4.2 volts x 3 = 12.6 volts). Our trusty charger set up for a 11.1 volt RC LiPo battery pack will then stop charging at 12.6 volts – simple right.
Well what would happen if one of those three cells is charging a bit faster than the other two? There could be two cells at only 4.1 volts and the one that is charging at bit faster could be getting overcharged up to 4.4 volts before the charger stops charging at 12.6 volts. That would certainly cause damage to that one cell and a very short life.
This is an extreme example and that kind of voltage difference between cells is unlikely with a healthy pack, but even a 0.1 (100 mV) voltage difference between cells can cause issues and life cycle damage over time.
On the other end of the spectrum is if there is one cell in the pack that is not reaching full charge when the pack is charged and then gets discharged below 3.0 volts under load even though the 3 cell battery pack is indicating a voltage of 9 volts or higher.
Balancing ensures all cells are always within about 0.01-0.03 volts per cell so over charging or discharging of one or more cells won’t ruin your battery pack, or in a worse case scenario become a safety issue from extensively overcharging a cell.
You don’t have to balance your RC LiPo battery pack each time you charge it. Most will agree every 10th time is fine with a healthy battery pack. The problem is knowing if your pack is healthy, cells in older packs all eventually develop internal resistance variances meaning they will charge at different rates. As far as I am concerned, if you have a good balancing charger, use it at every charge, or at least at every 2nd charge.
Balancing Taps & Charging
Okay, so now you know why a RC LiPo battery has to be balanced, the question now is how do you do it?
Every multi celled RC LiPo battery will have what is called a balance tap or balance plug. This plug allows individual charging or discharging of each cell in the battery pack. Here are the four main ways to balance a LiPo pack.
Lipo’s can be balanced while charging the pack through the balance plug with a balancing charger. This method uses the charger to individually charge each cell and ensure the voltages are the same in each cell as they charge. Here a dedicated 3 cell charger is charging a 3 cell RC LiPo battery through the balancing plug/tap. The limitation using the balance tap for charging is the maximum charge rate. Since the gauge of balance plug wiring and the plug itself are small, this method only works on smaller LiPo's or charge rates not much higher then 2.5 amps maximum. A good clue if you are pushing too many amps through the balance leads would be a warm/hot balance plug/wiring. Depending on the balance plug and gauge of wiring being used, some people find even 1.0 Amps too much, so do monitor that plug and wiring if you do charge through the balance plug to ensure they are not getting hot.
LiPo’s can be balanced with a stand alone balancer such as a Blinky Balancer while the pack is being charged through the main power plug. Shown here is a computerized charger charging a 3 cell LiPo pack through the main power plug with the Blinky balancer hooked up to the balance plug. The Blinky will monitor the voltage of each cell in the pack and apply a small load to discharge any cell that is indicating a charge voltage higher than the other cells in the pack keeping all cells within about 0.02 volts (20 mV) of each other. These little external balancers can't produce enough load however to balance out larger packs at higher charge rates so don't use them on anything much larger than a 2000 Mah pack while charging at lower than 1C rates.
A RC LiPo pack can also be balanced with a stand alone balancer after charging the pack through the main power plug. Again in this picture, the Blinky balancer is hooked up to the balancing plug, but this time after the pack was charged. Obviously this method of balancing is not as safe for the LiPo pack since one or more cells could be overcharged during charging, but it will at least balance all the cells out afterwards.
Finally the very best way to balance and charge a LiPo battery is by using a good computerized charger with built-in balance circuitry. With this set-up, the battery is charged through the main power plug and the balance plug/tap is plugged into what is called a balance board which is in-turn plugged into the computerized charger in most cases; however, some chargers will have the different balance ports built into the charger eliminating the need for a separate balance board.
The charger then puts a load on any cell/s drifting past the voltage of the others keeping them all in check. Chargers with built in balance circuitry also will either automatically select the correct cell count of battery (since they detect the number of cells through the balance plug); or warn you if you have the wrong cell count selected. This feature offers one more very useful level of "goof-proofness" (not sure if that's a real word, but for me it should be). Just call me Jar-Jar-Binks!
Good computerized chargers with built-in balance circuitry, will confirm correct cell count, alter the charge & balance rates, and when balancing actually occurs in the charge cycle to ensure a "stress free" and safe charge/balance cycle that extends the useful life of the LiPo pack.
This is by far the safest way to charge higher capacity multi celled LiPo's and opens up a whole new world to more advanced charging methods such as multiple pack parallel charging (the way I charge my LiPo's most of the time now).
RC LiPo Battery Plugs & Connectors
Balancing Plugs/Taps
Balancing plugs/taps currently come in several flavors and it is important to know which one your balancing charger, stand alone balancer, or balance board supports so you choose the correct plug type when purchasing your RC LiPo battery (or the other way around).
Balancing plugs/taps will always have one more connector pin than the number of cells in the pack. A 3S pack for example will have a 4 pin connector (one shared ground pin, and one positive pin for each of the 3 cells).
Here are the most common types of balance plugs...
JST-XH Plug
This is by far, the most common balancing plug type in use today. Used on: Align, E-Flite, Common Sense RC, Glacier, Gens-Ace, Great Planes, Esky, Electrifly, Losi, Rhino, Trinity, Turnigy, Nano-Tech, Pulse-Ultra, Venom, Zippy - just to name a few.
While on the topic of JST-XH balancing plugs, there are protection sleeves called AB clips that snap over the balance plug to give you something to grip while unplugging the balance plug instead of pulling on the balance wires (something I admit being very guilty of myself, especially after I started using para-boards while para-charging).
I started using these AB clips recently and they work so well to prevent the wires from being pulled out of the plugs because you can now actually grip the plug. They are super easy to install as you can see in the picture here. Just place the JST-XH plug in the unfolded AB clip and fold the clip closed - done! Definitely a worth while purchase for the very little they cost! They are available in 5 sizes to fit 2S to 6S JST-XH balance plugs.
Thunder Power Plug
Used on: Thunder Power, FlightPower, Apex, EVO, MPX, Outrage, and a few other battery brands.
Polyquest Plug
Used on: Polyquest, E-tec, True RC, Extreme Power, Impulse, Enermax, Hyperion, Poly RC, Xcite, Fliton, and a few others.
JST-EH Plugs
These are probably the least common type of balancing plug, but you will find them on a few big name battery brands such as: Kokam, Graupner, Core, and older Vampower battery packs.
You can get converters/adapters to use with different balancing plug configurations, but it is much easier and less costly if you just make sure you get the correct plug/tap that works with your charger when you purchase your LiPo battery.
Main Power Plugs / Connectors
Once again there are several out there depending on your power handling requirements and own personal preference. Getting one type of power plug/connector and sticking with it is the easiest way to go since all your connectors will be the same as will your charging plug/s and/or Para-Boards.
Here are 8 common plugs (there are certainly more):
JST Connector
This is a small power plug rated for up to 5 amps of continuous load. It is used on smaller battery packs (usually under 1500 mAh) for powering small park fliers and micro electric helis & quadrotors, or for powering on board electronics (receiver, servos, gyros, governors, etc.) in higher end models with dedicated RX packs.
Deans Ultra Connectors
These are a very popular connector type (also called "T" connectors) with a very loyal following, which unfortunately has driven the price up. They are rated for up to 50 amps of continuous load.
EC3 Connectors
EC3's are very popular as they use true "bullet style" connection pins and are rated for up to 60 amps of continuous load. Most will agree bullet pins make for the best possible connection when dealing with high current applications due to a larger surface contact area.
EC5 Connectors
These are a longer version of the EC3 and because the bullet pins are longer (5mm) they have an even greater surface area for contact. EC5's are rated for up to 120 amps of continuous load. Perfect for large 1/4 scale electrics and 700-800 size electric helis.
hexTronik XT-60 Connectors
XT-60 connectors are getting more and more popular due to the very good pricing and performance. Like the EC3 connectors they use gold plated bullet pins and have a slightly higher 65 amp current rating. Made with high temperature nylon, they don't melt when soldering if you get a little carried away and they are the best plug I have ever used when it comes to the ease of plugging and unplugging.
XT-90 connectors are the bigger brother to the XT-60. They are about twice as big and as the name suggests are able to handle 90+ Amps with ease. Just like the EC5 plugs, these are a wise choice in higher power applications such as 700 & 800 size helicopters & 1/4 scale electric planes.
Tamiya Connectors
These are lower amperage connectors once very popular, especially with the electric RC car, truck, and boat crowd, but since high amp LiPo's have entered the scene, Tamiya plugs are used less and less. You still will find them used for powering smaller models and some types of nitro starting systems.
are used exclusively on electric Traxxas RC vehicles/boats but can be fit to any current application up to about 60 Amps. These are a very nice connector that many say are one of the nicest to plug and unplug. I just tried a set out and am very impressed!
The four most common LiPo power plugs/connectors you will come across (for average load applications in the RC aircraft realm) are the Deans Ultra's, the EC3's, the XT-60's, and the Traxxas's. I have used all four and like the EC3, XT60, and the Traxxas more or less equally well.
The Traxxas connectors of all these one listed are by far the easiest to handle (plug & unplug); but they can also be quite unforgiving when soldering the wire to the terminals. It's easy for the solder to wick down the terminal preventing proper insertion into the plug housing.
EC3 & Traxxas are nice because the soldering connection is concealed within the plug so you don't need to use heat shrink to insulate the solder connection. The downside is if you ever have to un-solder the wiring from the plug, most of the time the plug is damaged trying to get the pins out (on the EC3). The Traxxas connector requires a special pin removal tool (you can make one fairly easy as well).
Deans Ultras and XT-60's on the other hand could short while soldering if you are not careful - it has happened to me a couple times and the tip of my soldering iron vaporized with the huge current that arced across the pins - it wakes you up pretty fast!
The other issue on the Dean's is if the heat is applied too long or at too high a temp, you will melt the actual plug or loosen the pins within the plug. The true nylon XT60's & 90's are much better in this respect as they have a higher melting point.
The plug types like the EC3, EC5, and Traxxas, where you solder the pins separately and then insert them into the plug completely eliminates that potential issue, but as I mentioned they are hard to remove/resolder later on if you need to. It's all a compromise.
For higher power applications, I like both the EC5 and XT90 connectors equally well. The XT90's like the 60's however are the easiest to reuse & re-solder and are less costly. You generally always damage the plug or pin on the EC5's when you try and remove the pins for re-soldering.
LiPo Battery Connector Life Span?
Main power plugs/connectors have a finite cycle life (how many times they can be plugged & unplugged) before they start wearing out, pitting & carbon burning, or the spring tension of the contact points starts getting weak.
All three conditions will give you an increasing poor connection with increased resistance. This generally starts showing up as power drop-offs or worse, cut-outs under high current loading meaning it's time to replace your connectors. Yep, I've been there and have the sad remains of the heli as a reminder!
Hidden Carbon Pitting In The Male EC5 Connector Took My Beloved "Sharky" Out Of The Sky!So, think of all these RC LiPo battery connectors as "wear & tear" items and keep a watchful eye on them. Replacing them when they start looking worn or are getting really easy (loose) to plug and unplug is cheap insurance considering what can happen if they go ignored!
Sexy LiPo Battery Connectors
I should also point out both balancing and main power plugs come in "male" and "female" orientations. If you are purchasing plugs for your battery or ESC, make sure you get the correct "sex". All the plug sets I linked to above come in sets of both sexes, so you'll be covered on each end :-)
Many RC LiPo batteries and ESC's actually don’t come with any connector/s (just the two wire ends insulated with heat shrink).
If you purchase a battery/ESC like that, make sure you purchase the correct connector/type and ensure your soldering skills are up to the task. Otherwise, better search for a battery/ESC that comes with the correct connector/plug type already in place.
Speaking of soldering; with all these LiPo battery plugs and whatnot (that you will also need to replace from time to time as they wear out); when you get into electric powered RC, you will soon find out how necessary good soldering skills are.
If you're already a good solderer, great! If not, you better learn. Soldering truly is one of the most important skills to acquire in this hobby!
I talk about soldering equipment more on my RC Helicopter Tool page, but here are a few of my personal recommendations...
Charging Safety
Charging LiPo's on The Concrete FloorI am not going to go into a lengthy safety speech here – there are enough warnings that come with RC LiPo battery instructions that will give you all the information needed; specifically you should charge your LiPo’s in a fire safe area and never unattended. That last point is easy to print in the instructions, but rarely practical in the real world.
Personally I don’t have the time to sit down by my charging station in the workshop to keep an ever watchful eye on my LiPo packs charging - that is akin to watching the grass grow.
Here are my 5 simple LiPo Charging Safety Tips that I follow :
- I usually charge all my larger multi celled LiPo’s directly on the concrete floor in the shop well away from any combustibles.
- I always wait at least 15 minutes after using a LiPo to let it cool down before charging it. This prolongs the life of the LiPo and prevents possible overheating and damage.
- I never ever leave the house (preferably the room) when charging LiPo’s.
- I store all my LiPo's in a metal tool chest in various compartments so if one goes up in smoke it hopefully won't take them all. Ammo boxes are also an excellent choice. I don't trust LiPo sacks or bags at all! They are a complete waste of money for all but small packs IMO. You can pick up surplus ammo boxes for less money and they offer superior protection.
- Lastly – I purchased an inexpensive smoke detector that I have mounted above my charging area & storage chest so in the unlikely event a pack bursts during a charge cycle or while in storage, the smoke detector will sound and I will be alerted. I also have a small fire extinguisher mounted on the wall in my workshop for any fire that may occur, not just a LiPo fire. This may seem excessive, chances are it is... but after watching the video below, I feel these are worthwhile precautions.
I should also add, I've got well over 100 LiPo packs now and never has one started on fire, even when I try to get them to start on fire. Still, it's cheap insurance and makes me sleep better knowing I have taken & continue to follow those safety steps.
Almost every documented LiPo fire has occurred as a result of physical damage to the pack, (after a crash for example, or butter fingers dropping the pack on the hard concrete floor). Over discharging the pack under high current loads can also let out the smoke and start a fire onboard your model. Fires can also occur during charging (charging at too high a C rating or at too high a voltage), and resulted from a human error.
Keep that in mind if you feel these batteries are too dangerous. RC LiPo batteries are in fact very safe if the rules are obeyed. They are as safe or dangerous as you want them to be; just like any high energy storage medium such as gas, nitro fuel, or jet fuel.
I really got an appreciation of how strong a LiPo foil pouch is even when something goes drastically wrong.
Here is a picture of a 6s 5000 mAh pack that had a faulty cell and shorted internally during a flight. This one cell (the far right one) completely ballooned and got very hot - too hot to touch in fact and I was sure the pack was going to blow after I landed. That was not the case however and the foil pouch cell contained all the boiled off electrolyte. It was tight as a drum mind you, but no venting or fire occurred. A very rare occurrence, but I thought you might like to see what a swollen cell looks like.
Speaking of swollen or "puffed" LiPo packs, I get asked this question a lot.
LiPo cells can swell a little bit, especially if they are being abused, are getting old, or are poor quality. It is actually somewhat normal as they age (again based on how hard you run the packs, the quality of the packs, and how much they heat up).
As long as it is very-very minor swelling & goes away after the pack cools down, you can usually still safely use the pack and keep the swelling in check, but not to its full potential. If the internal resistance of a swollen cell is significantly higher than the other/s in the pack, that however would be reason to stop using that pack right away.
As packs age, the swelling can get a little worse (again because the internal resistance gets higher and they start running hotter). As a LiPo pack is nearing the end of it's useful life it can show some very minor swelling that won't go away, even after the pack cools. This pack may still have some nice non aggressive flights left in it or it could be a ticking time bomb.
Some feel once a LiPo battery is showing any swelling whatsoever that won't go away, they are not safe to use and must be disposed of. My own experience is if you treat them kindly with gentler flying/driving, you can generally get many more safe cycles out of them but you are doing so at your own risk. When in doubt, send puffed packs to the LiPo grave yard (AKA, the trash can). Yes can be disposed of in the trash once fully discharged.
Breaking-In RC LiPo Batteries
Breaking in a new LiPo pack is a good practice I feel, even though many say you don't have to do it. Just like a new engine, not pushing your new LiPo to the maximum limits the first few times out may give it added life and performance over the years.
Going back to that "ion exchange", breaking-in simply allows the pack's ion exchange efficiency to increase slightly to give the lowest possible internal resistance and best performance.
The break in method I follow is very simple... For the first few uses (perhaps 4 or 5), don't fly/drive too aggressively, keep the charge rates low (1C or lower), and don't discharge down past 50% of the battery's capacity.
RC LiPo Battery Storage
Well, you now know how a LiPo battery works, the safety concerns, what to look for when purchasing one, how to charge and balance one, and why it’s important; what more can there be to cover???
STORAGE!
How you store your LiPo’s between uses will greatly affect their life span as well.
As I mentioned, a LiPo cell that drops below 3 volts under load (about 3.6V open circuit voltage) is almost always & irreversibly damaged. It will have reduced capacity or total inability to accept a charge due to cell oxidation. If your batteries are stored for any period of time after you use them at close to that magic 3.6 volt per cell number, you risk irreversible damage.
As batteries sit, they will naturally self discharge. LiPo’s are actually very good in this respect and self discharge much slower than most other rechargeable battery types, but they still do lose capacity as they sit (about 1% per month). If you leave them for a number of weeks or months in a near fully discharged state, chances are they may be irreversibly damaged as the cells oxidize.
You must store them charged, but not fully charged either – that will also degrade/oxidize the cell matrix.
Fully charged LiPo batteries are not happy and must be used soon after they are fully charged. They are very much like F1 cars sitting on the grid!
Basically, the speed at which a LiPo pack ages (during storage) is based on both storage temperature and state of charge. You are likely okay to store a fully charged RC LiPo battery at room temperature for up to 2 days without doing too much damage. Never ever store a LiPo in a hot car fully charged for an extended time, that will certainly cause damage (puffed and may even vent) as I explained earlier, but it's worth repeating.
For optimum battery life, store your RC LiPo batteries in a cool room if possible (slows down the chemical reaction) at about a 40-60% charged state. That equates to around 3.85 volts per cell (open terminal resting voltage). The actual storage range is likely a little broader than this (I have heard some say numbers as high as 30-80% is fine, but since computerized chargers set the storage charge at 50% (3.85 volts per cell) that's what I recommend and what I follow myself.
You can actually extend the fully charged storage time from a couple days to weeks by storing your batteries in the fridge (not freezer) close to 0 degrees Celsius (32F); again, that helps slow down the chemical reaction that oxidizes the cathode in the cells. I have started doing this with my smaller packs seeing that I will often find myself wanting to go flying little micros with little lead time and it is very convenient having packs all ready fully charged.
If you do store your fully charged LiPo's in the fridge, pack them in a zip-lock freezer bag and squeeze out all the air before sealing the bag. This will prevent condensation forming on the battery packs when you take them out of the fridge as they warm up. You should allow the LiPo pack to warm up after removing from the fridge before using it of course. Small micro LiPo's warm quickly, big packs don't. This is why I only use the "fully charged cold storage" method with micro packs.
I only store in cold temps if I know I will be flying within a 2-3 week time frame. It wouldn't hurt to store at 50% charge capacity in the fridge all the time either; but it takes up precious beer chillin' real estate (priorities you know).
'건강하고 행복하게 > 자동차생활' 카테고리의 다른 글
| ** Charging Car Battery ( dead, flat, bad battery) (0) | 2017.01.30 |
|---|---|
| ** Deep cycle battery charging (0) | 2017.01.30 |
| DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (0) | 2017.01.23 |
| ***딥싸이클배터리 트로잔배터리 재생방법 (3) (0) | 2017.01.22 |
| Tire size designation (0) | 2017.01.11 |